Backup Power for Electronics
Seasonal Content: This guide is most relevant during summer months.

Two summers ago, I was on a critical video call when the power went out. My laptop died, my WiFi router rebooted, and I spent 10 minutes scrambling to get back online using my phone’s hotspot while apologizing to everyone. That embarrassing moment convinced me that keeping essential electronics running during outages isn’t a luxury—it’s a necessity.
Since then, I’ve built a layered backup power system that’s kept me online through six power outages, including a 2-day summer blackout. The secret isn’t one massive battery—it’s the right mix of small, targeted solutions that work together.
Here’s what actually works for keeping your digital life functional when the grid fails.

My Electronics Power Strategy (Learned the Hard Way)
Priority order (based on real outage experience):
- Internet connectivity - WiFi router and modem (work from home requires this)
- Communication devices - phones, tablets for family contact
- Work equipment - laptop for essential tasks
- Lighting - LED lights for safety and continued activity
- Entertainment - tablets, e-readers for extended outages
Layered Backup Power Strategy
Layer | Best For | Typical Runtime | Cost |
---|---|---|---|
1: Battery Banks | Phones & Tablets | 4-5 phone charges | $40 - $80 |
2: UPS | Router & Modem | 1-2 hours | $80 - $150 |
3: Power Station | Laptops & Extended Outages | 6-8 laptop hours | $300 - $600 |
Layer 1: Internet Connectivity (The Foundation)
Why the Router Dies First
What I learned: Your internet equipment is usually the first thing affected by power outages, even brief ones. When power flickers, your router reboots and takes 3-5 minutes to reconnect. During longer outages, you lose internet completely while your laptop still has battery power.
UPS for Modem and Router
How to Size Your UPS
Look at the power bricks for your modem and router. Find the output watts (W). Add them together (e.g., 15W + 20W = 35W). A 600VA UPS can typically handle a 35-50W load for 60-90 minutes. Don’t overbuy; you just need enough time to bridge short outages or safely shut down.
My setup: APC Back-UPS 600VA ($80) powers my cable modem and Wi‑Fi 6 router for 90 minutes. It sits on a shelf next to the router and has saved me from dozens of brief outages.
What to connect to the battery-backed outlets:
- Cable/fiber modem (usually 15-30W)
- WiFi router (usually 10-20W)
- WiFi mesh nodes if you have them (10W each)
- Network switch if needed (5-15W)
What to connect to the surge-only outlets (or not at all):
- Printers
- Desktop computers
- Space heaters or fans
- Anything not critical to internet connectivity
Layer 2: Personal Device Power
Battery Bank Strategy That Works
Avoid Uncertified Power Banks
Stick to reputable brands like Anker, Goal Zero, or Belkin. Cheap, uncertified power banks can be a fire hazard and often fail to deliver their advertised capacity. Look for the “UL” or “CE” certification marks.
My evolution (because I bought the wrong things first):
Mistake #1: Bought one massive 50,000mAh battery bank that was heavy, slow to charge, and overkill for daily use.
Current setup: Three 20,000mAh USB-C PD battery banks
- One per person in the household
- USB-C Power Delivery (PD) for fast laptop charging
- Multiple ports for simultaneous device charging
- Compact size that fits in a backpack or purse
Real-world capacity:
- iPhone: Charges 4-5 times from empty
- Android phone: Charges 3-4 times from empty
- Laptop: 1-2 full charges (depending on laptop battery size)
- Tablet: 2-3 full charges
The Car Charging Backup
What saved us during the 2-day outage: Multiple 12V car chargers with different cable types.
My car charging kit:
- Dual USB-C car charger (45W total output)
- USB-C to Lightning cable for iPhones
- USB-C to USB-C cable for Android phones and laptops
- USB-A to micro-USB for older devices
Pro tip: Start your car and let it run for 15-20 minutes while charging to avoid draining the car battery.
Layer 3: Extended Power for Laptops and Lights
Power Station Sizing
What I learned about capacity:
- 300-600W output: Handles most laptop chargers and LED lights
- 500Wh+ capacity: Provides 6-8 hours of laptop use plus device charging
- Pure sine wave: Ensures compatibility with sensitive electronics
My current setup: Jackery Explorer 500 that runs my laptop for 6 hours and charges phones 10+ times
Solar Charging Integration
Solar Charging Reality Check
A 60W solar panel is great for topping off your power station, but don’t expect a full recharge in one day, especially in winter or on cloudy days. It’s a way to extend your runtime, not achieve infinite power. Position the panels in direct sunlight and adjust them throughout the day for best results.
Portable solar panel: 60W foldable panel that charges the power station in 8-10 hours of sun
Lighting Strategy
LED efficiency advantage: Modern LED lights use 90% less power than incandescent My lighting kit: Three USB-rechargeable LED lanterns that provide room lighting for 8+ hours per charge
Real-World Performance Results
What I’ve Actually Used During Outages
Summer storm (6 hours):
- UPS kept internet running the entire time
- Battery banks charged phones and tablets
- Laptop ran on internal battery + one external charge
Winter ice storm (36 hours):
- UPS provided 90 minutes of internet, then switched to phone hotspot
- Power station kept laptop and lights running for essential work
- Car charging extended phone battery life indefinitely
Lessons Learned
Internet is critical: Work-from-home requires connectivity above all else Layer redundancy: Multiple small solutions beat one large solution Fuel efficiency: LED lights and efficient devices stretch power much further
Buying Guide: What Actually Matters
Battery Bank Features
Must-have: USB-C Power Delivery (45W minimum for laptops) Nice-to-have: Wireless charging pad, LED flashlight Avoid: Massive capacity (over 25,000mAh) - too heavy and slow to charge
UPS Selection
Key specs: Runtime at your actual load, not maximum capacity Sine wave: Pure sine wave is best for sensitive electronics like routers and computers. A simulated sine wave is fine for simple devices but can cause issues with modern electronics. Outlets: Ensure enough battery-backed outlets for your equipment
Power Station Considerations
Output: 300W minimum for laptop charging, 600W for multiple devices Capacity: 500Wh provides 6-8 hours of laptop use Portability: Under 15 lbs if you might need to move it
Budget-Friendly Starter Kit ($200-300)
Essential tier:
- 20,000mAh USB-C battery bank: $40-60
- Small UPS for router/modem: $80-120
- USB-rechargeable LED lantern: $25-40
Expanded tier (add $200-400):
- Second battery bank for household member
- 300-500W portable power station
- 60W folding solar panel
Bottom Line for Electronics Backup Power
Start with the basics: Battery banks for phones, small UPS for internet Layer your approach: Different power sources for different device types
Size for your needs: Don’t overbuy - most outages last under 8 hours Test your system: Run through a practice outage to identify gaps
The goal isn’t to power everything - it’s to keep the essentials running long enough to stay connected and productive until power returns. Focus on internet connectivity first, then work your way out to other devices based on your actual priorities during outages.